pages tagged climbingbastla.nethttps://www.bastla.net/tags/climbing/bastla.netikiwiki2011-06-07T21:12:50ZBelay attachemet with Dyneema and Nylon slingshttps://www.bastla.net/blog/2011/04/04_sling_belay_attachemet/2011-04-04T10:37:56Z2011-04-04T10:37:56Z
<p>Whoever is using a Dyneema or Nylon sling <em>cow's tail</em> to attach himself to a
belay anchor should see this <a href="http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5">video of drop tests by DMM</a>. Long story short:
<strong>Using Nylon slings could be dangerous (fall factor 2), using Dyneema slings is
kind of suicidal (starting with fall factor 1)!</strong></p>
<p>Even in a climbing book from 2006 I found no hint about this topic. The
suggestion is just to take a sling for attaching.</p>
<p>The <em>Syndicat Français des Entreprises de Travaux en Hauteur</em> and the <em>École
Française de Spéléologie</em> published another <a href="http://www.irata.org/pdf_word/lanyardtest.pdf">drop test protocol</a> with more
various types of attachements using different materials, knots, stitches and
also prefabricated systems. Concluded, the test team suggests a dynamic rope
with a <a href="http://www.canyonsandcrags.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/knot_noose_sm.png">Barrel Knot ("Half a Double Fisherman's Knot")</a> for the carabiner end
and a <a href="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/G/l/0/-/-/Figure8TraceKnot2.jpg">Figure-Eight Knot</a> to connect the harness.</p>
<p>I also heard of somebody who adds an additional <em>screamer</em> (shock load limiter,
used for ice climbing and via ferrata). Shure, you can heft uphill as much gear
as you want but contrary to via ferrata where you maybe have to sustain fall
factors above 3 you can just have 2 (maximum) attached with a <em>cow's tail</em>.</p>
<p><em>(Thanks for the hint <a href="http://collectifpinceoreilles.com/Membres.php?id=10">Youri</a>)</em></p>